Assini, Cote d'Ivoire 2002
In West Africa along the desolate coastline of eastern Cote d'Ivoire lies a remote and peaceful beach of Assini. It was here, reachable only by boat, that we joined some friends for a quiet escape from Abdijan. Warm temperatures combined with fresh sea air made this spot perhaps the most unguarded I have ever felt on the continent of Africa. The calm before the storm, perhaps, as following this escape we went up country into the "bush" to Bobi, a small diamond mining village where my wife lived during the Peace Corps. It was during this trip in September 2002 that the Coup occured which shut down then entire country, closing all borders, and killing key political figures. After hunkering down, we escaped on the first day that the airport re-opened. Peace was an illusion, and safety a dream. We were the lucky few who could leave.La Paz, Bolivia 2002
Bolivia is called the "Tibet of South America." It has earned this nickname because of its high arid plateau, the Altiplano, as well as its intact indigenous culture. These people live a very tough yet simple existance. Traditional livelihoods include herding, farming, and weaving. Set amongst the high glaciated mountains of the Andes in the west, the highlanders brave intense sun and bitter cold. To the east the high mountains drop into cloud forests which further drop into the Amazon Basin. Landlocked and diverse, Bolivia holds wisdom and character evolved over centuries.
Cloud Forest, Bolivia 2002
Amongst the many wonders of Bolivia are the indigenous peoples. From the Altiplano, the high plains, through the cloud forests pictured here, to the Amazon Rain Forests, these native peoples have found a variety of ways to survive and thrive. Although vehicular traffic is limited to a few dangerous roads which link these distinct regions together, walking between them is like walking through a dream. Leaving the high mountainous regions and entering the misty passes and valleys, one could imagine traders and explorers drawn in by the consistent unvailing of new wonders.
Vulcan Tajumulco, Guatemala 2001
This is the highest peak in Central America at 13,845'. We summited before sunrise. To the east, looking into the red ribbon of dawn, we could see a skyline of valcanoes with one sending a mushroom cloud into the transition sky. To the west was the shadow of the volcano we were standing on extending out into Chiapas, Mexico and beyond.
Lago Atilan, Guatemala 2001
Guatemala is a vividly rich environment in terms of both culture and nature. Surrounded by towering volcanos, some of which erupt regularly, towns, villages and locals engage in diferentiation through textiles. In markets such as this one the local pattern and colors are abundant and available. To the trained eye, an observer can determine the region, if not the exact town and perhaps even the family where articles of clothing are made. Textiles are an ancient form of expression and people wear their colors and patterns with pride. As an outsider, it is usually when one style s next to another that I could see the differences. As with anything, awareness, familiarity and sensitivity to subtleness opens up worlds of understanding and possibility.Mekong Delta, Vietnam 2000
Cycling through southern Vietnam we had many unexpected surprises. One of the best discoveries was the many Khmer Temples which showed up on no maps. As monks are scholars, their warmth, curiosity and genrosity were always a welcome sight. It was in their midst that gentleness, boldness, and authenticity seemed natural and easy. It was as if whatever the topic of discussion, it was a conversation between kindred spirits who could see beyod or physical forms and into the uiversal truths of the human experience.
Ton Sai kayak, Thailand 1999
To properly explore southern Thailand it is advisable to spend some time in a water craft. Towering cliffs covered in dense jungle soar from the sands while colorful fish and sea life flurish under the water. All around unique views extend upward, downward and inward. The monkeys and monitor lizards visit to see what they may gain from your presence before disappearing again into the underbrush. Choices widdle down to land or sea, and the two get intertwined to create a custom adveture everytime.Ton Sai, Thailand 1999
On the Southwest coast of Thailand is a rock climbers tropical paradise. Only accessible by long tail boat, Ton Sai rests peacefully in a remote location of the Krabi provence. Awaiting your arrival are stalagtite cliffs hanging over clear warm water. Awaiting you are caves, monkeys and monitor lizards. Awaiting you are fresh fruit feasts, spicy barbacued baracuda, and moonlight reggae dance parties. When your desires are satiated and your soul is satisfied, nothing craddles your body better than a hanging hammock in heaven.
Islamabad, Pakistan 1997
While hitchhiking solo in Pakistan I discovered many amazing and surprising things. For one, the Moghul Empire, which ruled this region of the world between the 16th and 18th centuries, established a very impressive architectural expression of religion and authority. The Lal Masjid, or Red Mosque is similar in many ways to other more well known structures such as the Taj Mahal in Agra, India. The sheer magnitude of these buildings, and the cohesion of the devotees, is testiment to the human ability to align to common understanding.
Peshawar, Pakistan 1997
Peshawar is in the Northwest Frontier region of Pakistan, at the the edge of the uncontroled tribal lands which run along the border with Afghanistan. At the base of Khyber Pass, this is a crossroads of many peoples over the centuries. At this time it was near lawlessness however held a certain balance between religious ideology and vibrant commerce. To reach Khyber Pass one must be accompanied by an armed guard, and safety is not guaranteed. In the lawless tribal areas, mass markets of cheap global goods flurished providing everything from TV's and VCR's to machine guns and rocket propelled grenades. For this segmant of the journey I chose to stick to more traditional markets bearing exotic spices, fresh vegitables and meats.
Karakorum, Pakistan 1997
Traveling along the Karakorum Highway is slow and long. Stops are usually made at roadside rests called caravansari's. Here tea and bread are readily awaiting the weary traveler, and cots are abundant for those who wish to lay for a while. Fellow travelers are genuinly interested and interesting, welcoming conversation. These three men were open yet hesitant towards me, as I traveled the path of the locals rather than the tourist. At prayer time the caravansari emptied out as the devoted aligned themselves to Mecca and recited the holy scriptures. Once complete, we were back on the road and on our way...slowly.Nanga Parbat, Pakistan 1997
The Himalayan chain comes to an end in Northern Pakistan. The the furthest west peak of the Himalayan chain is the 9th tallest mountain on the planet, Nanga Parbat. After hitchhiking through the Hindu Kush I arrived at the bottom of the valley which leads up to this small settlement at Fairy Meadows. Along the hike I turned a corner to discover a young Pakistani also was walking solo. This teenager was as surprised to see me as I was to see him. We spent an uncomforatble moment in silence as I obsreved him and he observed me. My thoughts raced about what I was carrying which stood out, such as my leather boots, backpacking equipment and camera. I also identified that he had none of these things, yet had a machine gun over his right shoulder. As the tension grew my mind sped through my databank of ideas on how to proceed. Finally my mind stopped on my decision; act "normal" as a local would. I gently smiled, touched my heart, greeted him in local tongue and reached out my hand. His shoulders relaxed, he smiled, he reached out his hand and we embraced as brothers. A moment later he was gone and I was on my way, pondering my insight that "normalcy is relative".Karakorum Highway, Pakistan 1997
The trucks in Pakistan are unlike any I have seen anywhere in the world. The decoration and detail on them make their passing like a parade. Right down to small jingling frill that gives each truck a pitch and sound all its own. Along the Karakorum Highway these trucks are seen crawling up the mountains carrying mostly cement for building. The return journey down valley see these trucks loaded up with potatoes to bring to market. As a hitchiker I preferd catching rides in these trucks for two main reasons: I rode on the roof of the cab in a safe, elevated an and exposed location, and because of their size, load nd the steepness of their climb, they traveled extremely slow. I prefered this travel to crammed high speed mini-vans with little room, air or view.Thar Desert, Rajasthan, India 1997
At the far western reaches of Rajasthan in the golden city of Jaiselmer. This fortress in the desert is beautiflly carved in the Jain tradition. To get out this far is in and of itself a long hard road. To go even further means to leve roads behind and trael as the locals do, by camel, by bike, or by foot. I chose to journey into the Thar Desert byt camel for three days. Along this journey the main attraction is desert, desert and more desert. Scattered along the way are also ruins and villages, and not much else. The heat beats down and vapor rose from the earth right before my eyes. Occasionally the baking sun would disappear behind threatening clouds, however little rain actually fell. As the wind kicked up and the sand began to fly, the thought of water was refreshing, however ellusive. The combination created an environment where the mirage is perhaps more common than reality.
Leh, Ladakh, India (Western Tibet) 1997
In 1997 the Dalai Lama came to Ladakh for 3 days of teaching. As this was his first visit to the region in many years the turnout was incredible. Along one side of the stage sat dignitaries from other religions and government. Along the othe side of the stage were all foreign guests. Right in front of the stage sat a sea of monks, who protected themselves from the mid day sun using umbrellas. Behind the monks were thousands of Ladakhi's who traveled fa and wide to attend the teachings of His Holiness. Sources working in remote regions told me that villages emptied out except the very sick and the very old. These three days blessed me with wonderful people, amazing lessons, and deep introspections.
Alchi Lamasary, Ladakh, India (Western Tibet) 1997
The inner chamber fo the Alchi Lamasary was locked. As we stood gazing at the amazingly intricate doorway a monk arrived with a ring of ancient keys. He fiddled with the traditional lock until it opened and then he swung he door open and stepped inside. As I followed him in I noticed that their was no other light source than the natural light coming in from outside. I quickly took several steps to the side, pulled my camera up to my eye, spun and snapped this single photograph. The ancient scrolls, scripts, and artifacts filling the room seemed highly valued and cared for. Centuries of knowledge has been passed down in this spot and the documents were kept here for safe keeping. I felt a sense of priveledge having stepped into such a treasure.Ladakh, India (Western Tibet) 1997
These three young monks were playfully following me as I wandered my way through the Thiksey Monastery. Their gentleness, joyousness and innocence revitalized me as though they were a fresh breath of the universe. Their life is remote yet simple. Monks have a unique opportunity for education, and because of such they are very curious. Their interest is easily met with openness and reciprocity.
Alchi, Ladakh, India (Western Tibet) 1997
Arriving in Leh, Ladakh is difficult if for no other reason than altitude. Arriving at 11,500 feet takes your breath away in more ways than one. As an acclimitization strategy, we spent the first few days touring villages and lamasaries getting aquanted with the culture and environment. In the village of Alchi I took a stroll through the fields to feel the thin air in my lungs. Much to my surprise I came upon this young boy in a golden field of grain. At first he tried to duck out of sight, but when he saw me coming near he popped up and offered me a silent "Julay", the local greeting custom. After snapping this photo I quickly dropped my camera and returned the salutation. He disappeared as quickly as he appeared and I wondered off more connected to Ladakh than I was moments before.Swoop Gimp, Zion NP, Utah 1996
Climbing my first Big Wall, Swoop Gimp, I learned a lot from two friends of mine who were AMGA guides. Pictured here, Kurt demonstrates how to "Jug a line" which the leader, John, fixed at the next belay station. I, being the third, got to break down the station, unclip from everything except the line going up, and swing free from the overhanging cliff. Not even waiting for the swinging to subside, I then ascended the rope in the same fashion. We did this again and again and again as we gained altitude. Three days and two nights later we pull;ed ourselves and all of our equipment over the rim of the canyon and hiked out. The two nights spent on the wall were exhillerating blessed by a full moon. Even though it was my frist time sleeping in a hanging hammock, exhaustion trumped fear and my mind was quiet as I drifted to sleep in peace.
Lake Naivasha, Kenya 1996
Traveling in the Rift Valley of Kenya, I came upon a group of very excited sports fans. Apparently their team had one a very important match this day and their enthusiasm overtook them. The area is rich with wildlife including hundreds of Fishing Eagles, Flamingos, and Hippopotamus. Hell Gate is nearby and is one of the most accessable rock climbing spots in Kenya. This region of the Rift Valley has much to offer locvals and visitors alike.Loitokitok, Kenya 1996
The Outward Bound Centre in Kenya was the first OB school established outside of the British Isles. Origionally it was used by the Britsh Military for training purposes as origionally designed by Kurt Hahn. By the time I worked at the OBC in Loitokitok, Kenya the world, the country, and the school had been through many changes. Run by Kenyans and delivering programs to predominately Kenyans, I was priveledged to work and play with the locals. With curiosity on top of trust, we explored many interesting conversations. Occasionally my friends would slip into Kiswahili, and I sat patiently in silence. They would then let out the trademark African belly laugh coming from deep within heir soul and exclaim, "You are in linguistic exhile!"Mt. Cook, New Zealand 1995
New Zealand is home to the Southern Alps, and Aoraki, better known as Mt. Cook, is the tallest peak in the country at 12,316 feet. Camping under the southern stars across the valley from the mountain icon afforded me an amazing opportunity to witness the night sky transition into day upon the glaciated peaks. This snap was taken when the first morning rays reached across the South Pacific to first make landfall.Anakiwa, New Zealand 1995
Hitchhiking in New Zealand is not only fun, it invites adventure on new levels. When people found out that I was an Outward Bound instructor, I was greeted with great joy and admiration. In New Zealand, unlike the US, every citizen has an opportunity to experience an OB course, so many people I met had firstor second hand understanding of the schools mission and methodology. One ride dropped us at the school at Anakiwa who graciousy hosted us. We padled, climbed and hiked the region before moving on to our adventure on the North Island.
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